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    Black Stud Sensor. LCD Stud Sensor. House framing generally positions studs at 16 inches on-center. On-center is a popular building term that means that you measure from the center of one stud to the center of the adjacent stud.

    Among many benefits, this standardization helps avoid the confusion of whether you are measuring from the left of one stud to the left of the next or a myriad of other variations.

    So, in most houses, if you can locate one stud, there is a good chance that the next one is 16 inches away. With some newer houses, there are instances where the walls are framed differently.

    A concept called advanced framing puts the studs at every 24 inches on-center. So, beginning from the corner, or measuring from anyplace where you have already located a stud, you can measure in multiples of 16 inches to identify the likely location of other studs in the wall.

    In residential house framing, window and door openings will always have studs along their sides. In fact, they will usually have two doubled-up studs to make the opening extra sturdy.

    These are the king stud and the sister stud. In new construction, electricians usually nail the electrical boxes for light switches and outlets onto the sides of studs.

    This can help you find the general location of a stud in a wall. But note that it is not immediately clear on which side of the box you will find the stud.

    The electrical code does not specify which side of the stud to attach the box. To find out which side, you need the stud finder.

    It is important to know that not all electrical boxes are nailed onto studs. They might give you the false impression that there is a stud adjacent to them.

    You can always identify a retrofit or old-work box because they always have a small screw at the top and bottom of the box.

    If you start where you think there IS one, the stud finder will struggle because it's already calibrating itself at the most dense point.

    In general, an edge finder has a single sensor that detects a change as it occurs — the edge of a stud. It cannot tell you the size of the stud, so it's a good idea to make a mark, then approach from the other side, to make sure you know the width.

    You can then mark the center of that stud. Center finders have multiple sensors, so they can gauge the full width, and indicate the center for you.

    Most electronic stud finders do struggle if wall thicknesses are inconsistent, and with lath and plaster walls in particular.

    A third, and relatively recent introduction is the multi-sensor stud finder , also called an instant stud finder.

    These, as the name suggests, incorporate an array of sensors. They can read a whole wall at once, mapping multiple stud locations in one go.

    They don't need to be calibrated either. Because these stud finders take multiple readings, they handle irregularities better than edge or center finders.

    As a result, they're usually more accurate. Scanning stud finders work just as well on galvanized studs as wooden ones. They identify changes in density; the material doesn't matter.

    Some models can detect metals — both ferrous and non-ferrous. An advanced model that identifies the pipe could save you a big plumbing bill! Most electronic stud finders require a 9 volt battery to operate.

    Frustratingly, this is often not supplied. Basic magnetic stud finders can be found for ten bucks or less. Thousands of satisfied customers will tell you they work just fine.

    They do, but there's no precision. These models will find fixings that are off center, metal pipes, and conduit, without differentiating between the types of objects.

    These stud finders work equally well on wooden or metal studs. Again, it's likely that you'll get depth modes, plus live AC detection. You might also get metal identification — both non-ferrous like copper pipes and ferrous steel conduit, for example.

    Wide, multi-sensing models are capable of indicating not just the edges and center of a single stud, but can identify several studs at once, and unusual widths.

    Galvanized steel studs are increasingly popular. If you're hanging something, special fixings are recommended — you can't just screw in a picture hook.

    Now find the next stud along. Is it where it's supposed to be? Studs are usually located 16" or 24" apart. What you're trying to do is ensure you've got a stud, and not a random cable or length of pipe.

    Some stud finders are surprisingly sensitive to battery charge. If yours was working yesterday, and isn't today, try changing the battery before anything else.

    One manufacturer told us that nine times out of ten, a weak battery was the problem. If you're using an edge finder, be sure to find both edges, so you can place your fixing in the center.

    Never assume the other edge is a set distance away. Maybe it is standard, but maybe the contractor ran out, and used something else, just that once?

    You never really know what went on when that wall was put up. Better safe than sorry. Mounting a TV can be problematic if the bracket doesn't match your stud spacing.

    It's always best to use studs if you can — they're more secure — but drywall anchors can be used. Ensure they have the correct load capacity, and use plenty.

    Never think you can get away with using less than recommended. If your walls are an unusual size, it's not unknown for small sections to have been nailed to standard studs to reach the required height.

    If you're fixing something within six inches of the ceiling, double check that your stud is where you expect it to be. A: AC detection also called AC scan, or other similar names, depending on manufacturer is an attempt to find cables carrying live current, hidden in your wall.

    They can provide a useful guide, but caution is always necessary. As a safety precaution, always turn main power off before drilling into walls.

    Q: Some of this technology is very clever, but can't I just use a big old magnet to find studs? A: You could, but it's a method that's very hit and miss.

    Using a magnet will find steel nails or screws, but not the actual stud — nor its center.

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